SARAJEVO TRAVEL NOTES

Now it's time to explore Sarajevo after making a daytrip to Mostar. Sarajevo is the largest city in Bosnia Herzegovina as well as the center of administration, economy, culture and sport.

In this article, I'll try to explain my observations about Sarajevo where I stayed in three nights.

HOW TO GO TO SARAJEVO FROM MOSTAR

As I mentioned on my Mostar article, the last bus from Mostar to Sarajevo departs at 18:15 and the name of the bus company is Autoprevoz. I had paid 12 Euros for one way ticket plus left luggage.

There are two bus terminals in Sarajevo. One of them is called as Autobusna Stanica (Main Terminal) which is closer to the city center and the other one is Autobusna Stanica Istocno (Eastern Terminal). While it takes about 35-40 minutes to walk to the city center from the Main Terminal, it more or less takes 20-25 minutes by taxi from the Eastern Terminal. The 18:15 bus from Mostar comes into the Main terminal.

HOW TO GO TO BELGRADE FROM SARAJEVO

It is generally known that there are 2 options to reach Belgrade from Sarajevo, there is also a 3rd option :

If you would like to go to Belgrade from Sarajevo by bus and will take it from the Main Terminal, the only bus departs at 6:00 in the morning. This bus is supposed to arrive at Belgrade at 13:10. Although, the distance between two cities is only about 300-350 km, it takes much longer than expected because of speed limitations for buses. As for ticket prices, one way ticket costs 47 KM which is about 24-25 Euros. 

While I was thinking of cathing the bus from the main terminal, I came across Taxi Travel company which I'll explain on the 3rd option. Anyway, they did not show up although I waited for them more than one hour, I had to go to Eastern Terminal which I had never wanted. The guy at the reception phoned the terminal and told me that the next bus would depart at 09:45 am. I suppose, there are also  two other buses departing from Eastern Terminal at 12:30 and 15:00. I asked the reception to call a cab. Finally, I arrived at the Eastern Terminal (Istocno) exactly 4 minutes before it departed. By the way, the cab cost me 9,60 KM (about 5 Euros). On the other hand, the bus fare was 40,50 KM for Belgrade. Since I had no Bosnian currency they luckily accepted to take Euro and I paid 23 Euros plus 1 Euro for luggage. 

In conclusion, I never recommend to use this Istocno Terminal as the bus stopped every small terminals. I bet it stopped at least twice or three times in an hour for the whole journey. These breaks were sometimes 5 minutes and sometimes 15-20 minutes. In total, 8,5 hours passed, by the time I arrived at Belgrade.

The least known option is Taxi Travel. After some research, they seemed to be cheap, fast and reliable as they pick you up from your hotel and make you at Belgrade in 5 hours. On the other hand, bus journey takes 7-8 hours roughly. This company charges just 20 Euros and they have 2 services daily at 08:00 and 17:00 to Belgrade from Sarajevo. The easiest part is to make a reservation as you do it by simply writing them on their Facebook page. 

While everything was great and they confirmed my reservation twice, they did not show up although I waited for them more than an hour. They first told me they got stuck in traffic and then made my reservation for the next day to convince me. I didn't believe of course. They said sorry and invited me for the next bus at 17:00. Since it was quite late for me, I didn't accept their offer. In the end, they accepted their fault and told me they would pay me 20 Euros at my hostel in Belgrade as a compensation. As a result, they brought me 20 Euros for sorry which I never paid. So, the journey from Sarajevo to Belgrade was almost free of charge for me, except 5 Euros for taxi. :)

There is actually a fourth option to get to Belgrade, but I can not suggest as I'm not quite certain. As far as I got information from the internet and the reception guy, Centrotrans company goes to Belgrade from Ferhadija Street in Sarajevo.

EXCHANGING MONEY

As I said before, Bosnian currency is Konvertibilna Marka which is shown as KM. 1 Euro equals 1,95 KM or say it as 2 KM. You could exchange your money in any bank or post office in Sarajevo. I have also read that it can be possible to exchange it at the main bus terminal.

As for me, I did not need to change money at the exchange offices as I paid in Euros at my hostel and got KM in return.

ACCOMMODATION

I preferred to stay at Youth Hostel Ferijalac for 3 nights in Sarajevo and I can definitely recommend it. Two middle-aged man run the hostel and they are quite helpful. You could make a reservation on this property on Booking.com. CLICK HERE.

The reason I chose this hostel because of it is in 15-minute walking distance from the main bus terminal and 25 minutes from Bascarsija. To get to this hostel, make your way to main street from the main terminal. Turn left and go straight ahead. You will pass Put Zivota (next to main terminal) and Kranjcevica. Walk until you have found the cafe called "People's". You should see 161-stepped stairs next to the cafe. Climb up the stairs until the end and turn left. After a short while, you will see the hostel on your right hand side.

As for accommodation type and price I can say that I had paid 34,50 Euros for 3 nights excluding breakfast in a 6-bed dorm. However, the man at the reception told me "You are Turkish" and put me in a 2-bedded en-suite room without any extra cost and gave me later a cup of black tea free of charge. 

Lastly, I would like to say that the best season to travel through the Balkans is definitely May. The weather usually becomes awesome and you could pay less and have a chance to stay just by yourselves even if you book for a bed in 6-bed or 8-bed dorm.

PLACES TO VISIT IN SARAJEVO

Sarajevo is actually a city which can be finished in one day. Considering the bus issues, I recommend to stay here for 2 days.

Bascarsija

It is the center of Sarajevo. This place became the trade center in the 15th century and bazaars or market places founded. The first shops and inns had been established in Bascarsija by the governor of the city, Gazi Husrev Begova.

The golden age of Bascarsija is the beginning of 17th century. This area was not only Sarajevo's, but also the whole Balkans' trade center. Habsburg Dynasty later captured here and destroyed the big majority of them. Although Bascarsija was rebuilt, it was also damaged by a fire in 1857.

The most touristic place of Sarajevo is Bascarsija and there are plenty of shops which sell souvenirs, food, bits and pieces.

Bascarsija

Sebilj 

This is the symbol of Bascarsija and was built by the governor Mehmed Pasha in 1754. Almost a century later, it was destroyed by a fire. The structure today was built by Alexander Wittek in 1913.

Sebilj

Bascarsija Mosque

According to the information board, this mosque was built as wooden domed before 1528 and its dome was damaged by a fire in 1697 and rebuilt by stone in the half of 1900s. This mosque also known as Hadji Durak Mosque.

Bascarsija Mosque

Gazi Husrev Begova Mosque 

I supposed this mosque is the most impoartant mosque in the whole Bosnia Herzegovina. It was built by governor Gazi Husrev Begova in 1531. It is said to be built by Architect Sinan in many sources. However, it is thought that this beautiful mosque was built by Acem Esir Ali (an Ottoman architect).

The very famous 17th-century Turkish traveller Evliya Çelebi says this mosque was full of people during the daytime and night time and hot water was always available for ablutions for the Muslim Community since it had many foundations.

The entrance fee is 3 KM, by the way.

Gazi Husrev Begova Mosque

There is a very small cemetery on the right side once you enter the courtyard, a sweet fountain in the middle of the courtyard and a few big trees to rest in its shadow. There is also a small sebilj on the outer wall of the mosque complex which Evliya Çelebi also mentinoned. This water was by far the best in Sarajevo. You should not pay for water while you are in Sarajevo.

The fountain in the courtyard

The tomb of Gazi Husrev Begova is just off the fountain. There is also another courtyard just on the opposite side of the mosque. As soon as we enter here, the structure in front of us is Madrasah of Gazi Husrev Begova. Since its domes are covered by lead, it is also called as Kursumlija Madrasah. The building on the left of the madrasah is Gazi Husrev Begova Library and Museum. The entrance fee is 3 KM seperately.

Gazi Husrev Begova Madrasah (Kursumlija Madrasah)

Clock Tower

It is located on just behind of Gazi Husrev Begova Mosque and called Sahat Kula in Bosnian. Although it is not known when it was built, the first person who mentioned this tower is 17th century Turkish Traveller Evliya Çelebi.

Clock Tower

Gazi Husrev Begova Bezistan

It looks like a miniature form of Istanbul's Grand Bazaar. There is also another bezistan nearby called Brusa Bezistan which was built by Vizier Rustem Pasha in 1551.

Gazi Husrev Begova Bezistan

Ferhadija Mosque

It is also a 16th-century mosque remained from Ottomans. The location of the mosque is very close to Gazi Husrev Begova Bezistan.

Morica Han

Another importan place in Bascarsija is Morica Inn. There are cafes inside the inn as well as shops that sell things such as rugs.

Taslihan

It's behind of the Gazi Husrev Begova Bezistan and once upon a time there were a mosque, a fountain and various of shops inside. It was damaged by fires and totally destroyed in 1879. Nowadays, it looks like an archeological area.

Taslihan

Latin Bridge

This bridge is a 16th-century Ottoman bridge. The reason of its popularity is to be the location of 28 June 1914 assasination of Archduke of the Austrian-Hungary Empire, Franz Ferdinand that sparked the beginning of First World War. 

Latin Bridge

Miljacka River

It is a river that divides the city into two parts. However, its flow rate seemed to me very low.

Sarajevo 1878-1918 Museum

It is single storey building which is located just on the opposite side of the Latin Bridge. What shown in this museum are belongings of Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophie, various guns, photographs and model of Franz Ferdinand and Sophie.

The entrance fee is 4 KM and you will spend 15-20 minutes at most in this museum. Personally, I believe it is not worth it.

Emperor's Mosque


It's a 15th century mosque and located on the opposite left corner of Sarajevo Museum. This mosque is also called as Fatih Sultan Mehmed Mosque who was the conqueror of Constantinople.

Famous Turkish traveller Evliya Çelebi also says that there was a bridge in front of the mosque, but nothing remained today. Now there is a bridge on its original place and the name of it is Careva Cuprija.

Emperor's Mosque has a mid-sized courtyard and a small cemetery on the other side. The people who were buried here are mostly the ones who lived in the 18th and 19th century.

Emperor's Mosque

There is a sebilj (water fountain) near the mosque and I suggest to fill your bottles if you have one.

Behind of the Emperor's Mosque, St. Anthony Catholic Church stands with its beautiful stained glass windows.

Ali Pasha Mosque

This mosque is located on a corner where Kranjceviceva and Marsala Tito Streets meet. It was built in 1561 and Ali Pasha was buried here in the tomb.

Ali Pasha Mosque

City Hall

This 19th century building serves as a National Library today. It was converted into a library after the Second World War. Once it was bombarded in 1992, vast majority of collections was damaged and reopened in 2014 after restorations.

City Hall (National Library)

Cekrekcijina Mosque

It is located just on the opposite side of Sebilj in Bascarsija. This mosque was built in 1526 during the reign on Ottomans.

Cekrekcijina Mosque

Cathedral of Jesus' Sacred Heart 

It's just located on a small square close to Ferhadija Street. As far as I got informed, this structure was built in 1889. I could not go inside as the door was closed.

Cathedral of Jesus' Sacred Heart

Serb Orthodox Cathedral

The only thing I know about this cathedral is it was built in 1872. There is another Orthodox Cathedral near Bascarsija which is much older than this.

Serb Orthodox Cathedral

House of Svrzo

This house is a Ottoman house which was built in the 18th century. It is a house where a family called Svrzo lived here. The entrance fee is 3 KM.


Kazandziluk Street

This street is close to Bascarsija and things made from copper and aluminium are sold here. The most interesting ones are the sets and cups for tea and coffee. Those can also be found in a similar street called Kujundziluk. Both are traditional Ottoman bazaars.

Eternal Flame

It's a memorial to the victims of Second World War and erected on Sarajevo's Indepedence Day in 1946.

Eternal Flame

Atmejdan Park


It's a shadowed park where you can sit and watch Miljacka River. I remember I found free wi-fi here, probably from the cafe there.


Askenazi Synagogue

This building was built in 1902 and it is the third biggest synagogue in Europe and is the only synagogue which continue its activities. Free entrance.

Askenazi Synagogue

Academy of Fine Arts

I have no idea whether it is allowed to enter. I thought it was a cathedral at first sight. Impressive building.

Academy of Fine Arts

WHAT TO EAT & DRINK IN SARAJEVO

The first place I ate for breakfast was a small "börekçi" or "burektore" in Bosnian, was Buregdzinica Dino. I ordered 1 portion of Bosniak Burek with mince meat plus half portion of burek with cheese and 2 cups of tea and paid 7 KM totally. The bill was reasonable I can say. It was also delicious.

In an evening, I had eaten "döner" in Bascarsija and had paid 6,5 KM for 1 döner plus 330 ml coke.

You can also try "cevabi" or "cevapcici" in some restaurants near Gazi Husrev Begova Mosque.

Lastly, the people I met at my hostel also suggested Konyalı Restaurant which can be reached by walking alongside the river before Bascarsija. It's somewhere on the left.

SARAJEVO NIGHTLIFE

As far as I have observed, places like bars and pubs start to appear from the street in front of Taslihan. Some of them I noticed were like this :

City Pub : I did not see any other things apart from local and imported drinks. I went there as I heard Rock & Blues, but the place had no attraction. It was almost empty.

City Lounge : It is more or less the same as City Pub and not very far from it.

Cheers Pub : It's located on the opposite street of City Lounge. Apart from drinks, pizza and food with meat are also available here.

Sloga : It look as "Cinemas" on Google Maps and located on Mehmeda Sipahe Street.

Underground Club : It's located on a side street before coming Eternal Flame Memorial. Rock and Jazz music played here. Free to enter.

Libris : Tea, coffee, shisha (waterpipe), sahlep etc are available in this place. I had also seen people who were playing backgammon. I think, alcoholic drinks are not sold here.

On my next article, I will try to explain my experiences about Belgrade where I spent 3 nights.